A prerequisite to any trip requires a detailed account of places to see and things to do including pubs, breweries and restaurants. Prague is no exception, in fact with such a storied history we had many pages jammed full requiring weeks of exploration. In our case we had to squeeze everything we could into only 5 nights and there certainly would not be time for everything on our checklist. One name popped up on every list, Andrew Zimmern, Rick Steves and even the perpetual skeptic Anthony Bourdain (RIP) recommended it… that name was U Fleku! How can a brewery / restaurant that brews only dark beer make such an impression? Is it hype or hyperbole? I have to admit I was apprehensive, after all they did not even offer my favorite Czech beer, Pilsner Urquell.
U Fleku loosely translated means “At The Spot”, but with the exception of a large clock and a few flags the street view is rather nondescript. How could this be “The Spot”? Walk in the door and you are immediately immersed in medieval flavor, transported back in time to the 1500’s. This is not a manufactured feeling, it’s genuine, not Disneyland. Dark wood trimmed walls, wrought iron candelabras hanging from the ceiling, a large fireplace and brass trim adorned beer taps with huge wooden tables and chairs in a space that could easily fit the “Red Wedding” episode of “Game of Thrones”.
U Fleku is easily the largest restaurant in Prague seating 1,200 people between it’s 8 beer halls and impressive beer garden. Their extraordinary dark lager has been brewed and consumed on site for over 500 years! On this beautiful 70 degree May afternoon our destination was the beer garden, sitting at a large table making new friends as we wait for service. A man playing the accordion serenades their patrons as several waiters circle the room, each with their special responsibility. Certainly an efficient system as the first caries a huge platter over his head filled with half liter steins of their delicious dark lager.
Seeing you are without a beer, he places one in front of you along with a small white paper and places a line for each beer all without a spoken word! Soon after, another man with a smaller platter filled with shot glass sized mead does the same… the couple sitting next to us say “no thank you”, the man responds saying “don’t worry, you’ll love it” (they did) placing two marks on the paper and walking off before his patrons have a chance to answer! Finally our waiter, who had dropped off our English menu right after we received our first beer takes our order. The menu is filled with traditional Czech classics including Pork Knuckle braised in their dark lager, but since this is a mid afternoon visit we opt for a cheese plate and pickled sausages to compliment our beer.
It was a marvelous afternoon, making new friends and enjoying the atmosphere. Take the time to explore this marvelous establishment, look around and take it all in. The food is delicious, the beer cold and frothy and everything is perfect. There is no better compliment I can give than saying we made a second visit and here I am a month after our trip longing for another! I can tell you without a doubt every great review is earned and justified! U Fleku is not just a brewery or restaurant it is an experience that must be savored. Na Zdravi!
The Beer-Centric Traveler writes for Play Harder Tours… Please email Bill@playhardertours.com and start your travel planning today! For a complete list of recommendations please email with “U Fleku” on the subject line. I’d love to hear your suggestions too.